Saturday, September 19
We broke camp by 9 am and made a quick dash to the Hetch Hetchy tunnel, arriving at 11:30. There, we visited with family and friends until 1:30, when we crossed the bridge arm-in-arm with a Restore Hetch Hetchy banner. The rally that followed – and particularly Lee Stetson’s Muir re-visit – was a fine finale to a rewarding trip.
Friday, September 18
We broke camp early and hiked west out of Pleasant Valley up 1400 feet to a ridge of Rancheria Mountain. We had excellent views of the canyon of Paiute Creek up to the Sawtooth Range. The canyon resembles Tenaya Canyon with spires and domes of granite. We crossed a long ridge of the mountain thru sierra cabbage meadows and trail sections overgrown with ferns and brush. Few people see this only trail from Pate Valley to Hetch Hetchy. We stopped at a flowing creek – the water on the hike was ample -- and started down the 3000 ft drop to Rancheria Creek.
As we descended the south wall of the narrow section of Hetch Hetchy could be seen but not the water. Half of Hetch Hetchy can only be seen from this trail or by air, only partially, and by so few. As we neared Le Conte Point, I scrambled up some rocks and could see Kolana Rock. Le Conte is near the trail and like other point in the park must offer spectacular views, but has no trail up to the point. Pete and I pondered how to open up the grand canyon to more visitors by a better lower trail.
The views of Hetch Hetchy were striking and sad. We arrived at camp and cooled off in the pools of the creek only to be met by two park rangers who reminded us that we were prohibited from swimming at the site within the one mile radius of the lake but could swim just upstream as if that made a difference. (Not sure how they measure the one-mile limit – as crow flies or as creek courses.) We met Mark and Laurie, had a great spaghetti and wine dinner, followed with joking and star gazing and to bed in prep for tomorrow's festivities.
Thursday, September 1
We were up before sunrise, ate breakfast by head lamp, packed up and were off by 7. We left the Tuolumne to the north, climbing 4000 vertical feet on the east side of a large glacial canyon. The trail was little used and, to my surprise, was overgrown at places with ferns and wildflowers. I had expected this section to be hot and dry, but was pleasantly surprised to find it cool and wet. The views down to the canyon were spectacular. The walk up was strenuous and several of us had to stop and catch our breath. We stopped satisfied with our exertions for lunch at the ridge line near a grove of white barked aspens full of meadowlarks and other song birds.
We then descended to Pleasant Valley past a small lake and over a trail that disappeared at points. We forded Paiute Creek and set up camp. The creek rushed down a rock wall nearby, with waterfalls, tubs and pools, and we passed the afternoon cooling off in the cold water. Eden prepared a fine dinner, Patrick made a roaring fire, we talked of families, illnesses sports and movies, and went to bed at 8 for an early start Friday.
Wednesday, September 16
We took our time getting up. After breakfast we hiked 3 miles thru the canyon to Pate Valley. The canyon is striking on this stretch, resembling parts of Yosemite Valley. Pete pointed out that the south side of the canyon was wet and evergreen alpine due to lack of direct sun light while the north side was desert. It occurred to me that these were places that most people can never get to. You can't get there without climbing 4000 ft vertical The reservoir and the lack of trails makes this area inaccessible to all but the most hearty or committed.
Eden and Patrick thought that this was all for the good, making the canyon exclusive, but I think this place belongs to all of us. We stopped at a lovely swimming pool; Patrick, Eden and I dove from a safe ledge and everyone swam.
Pate Valley is a lovely meadow with ferns and wild flowers. Who knew? We struck camp across the rover from a group of Conservation Corp youth who had spent the last five months fixing the trail. They had dynamited one 100 ton rock. They were leaving the next morning.
Theresa, Eden, Patrick and I made a dash for the start of the reservoir. The first 2 miles were on the trail to White Wolf along the south side of the river, then hopping on rocks and crossing the river until we reached a point where the walls were narrow and we would have needed to stay in the river. We turned back so that Eden could make dinner on time, and crossed over a rock chute to a boulder creek then to the remains of an old trail covered in brambles and poison oak. Back to the trail we quickly returned to camp and tried to wash out any poison. Luckily, nobody was injured.
After dinner we had a good discussion about the history of Hetch Hetchy, our plans and how the hikers can help out. Then to bed to rise early for the long climb the next day.
Tuesday, September 15
We woke early for a long hike. We had a quick cereal breakfast, said goodby to the fishermen and started out before the heat of the day. We headed down Waterwheel Falls, stopped to cool down at a bridge over a creek that was flowing even now, then over and around Muir Gorge. This was a 400 ft vertical climb on a day we dropped more than 1000 ft from our camp sight.
We crossed thru an area recently burned in a fire set by the park service. Much ash, trees down black and even fir resistant manzanita charred. At one point, a tree had recently fallen on the trail, and was still partly on fire. We stopped at a group of river pools to rest. Several of us took a dip.
As we continued thru the canyon, the walls towered above us on both sides, especially to the south. Like Yosemite Valley, the granite was smooth at places, with spires and buttresses and chutes and swirls. As we descended, the air grew warmer and the forest became dominated by pines, sierra spruce and firs, with oak trees also appearing, some in their autumn foliage.
At the end of the gorge segment, we rested by a bridge where a waterfall plunged down to in Spring, but the creek was dry. Rob and Theresa rushed ahead, and I did my best to keep up with them, to no avail as the heat and the length of the hike got to me. I lost the trail briefly then retraced my steps, found the path and continued on to camp.
Eden knew of this lovely spot in a bend in the river. Our own private Yosemite: cascading pools, towering granite walls to the south with traces of waterfalls springing from the top. We can thank the SFPUC for making this wonderland so remote that few ever see it. We set up camp and spent the afternoon swimming in the pools, the water was slightly warmer, and watching Eden and Patrick shoot down water slides formed in the granite, including a 9 ft vertical drop.
I found one stretch that looked very safe and went down several times. To induce my son Gabriel to the next trip, I had David take a photo as I shot down. Patrick later derided my adventure as a kiddy ride.
After a dinner invaded by bees attracted by the chicken dinner, we talked by the camp fire about brushes with the law and health care reform and retired. I was worried about mosquitos but felt no bugs in my lean-to that night.
Monday, September 14
We took our time in the morning then hiked three miles. We passed two waterfalls, California and La Conte. Even in September the river flows with enough strength to kick up water at these falls, which are somewhere between cascades and falls. The Tuolumne falls form a giant staircase thru the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. And that adjective is well deserved. The canyon walls are polished granite and towering at places, looking much like Little Yosemite Valley. If this place were not so remote due to the dam, it would be a popular destination year round. As it is, it is unaccessible after the Tioga Road closes, and we saw noone else but our fishermen friends and two hikers from the Bay Area. The forest at this point includes many large pines and firs. Eden found us a hidden but well used campsight in a pine grove at a bend near Waterwheel Falls.
After we set up camp, most of us hiked down to Waterwheel. At the top of the falls, the valley opens up in a spectacular vista below. The falls plummet down a long incline in the granite that at times points upwards, causing the water to swirl. Eden and Patrick zipped down the rocks. Theresa and David followed, but Stefen, Pete and I stayed back. Later Stefen and I took the steep path down to the base of the falls and found swimming holes.
On our return up the hill, we ran into Gabriel and Sonny, who had separated from the other fishermen. When their companions found them hours later some lecturing followed. After dinner, the fishermen joined us, shared their liquor, and Maxwell described elaborate hazing incidents that were no longer tolerated when women were first allowed into the force.
Sunday, September 13
We hiked through Tuolumne Meadows down thru bristlecone pines to the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne. Off to our left, Unicorn and Cathedral Peaks appeared at unusual angles. We saw a large buck mule deer with large antlers. We stopped at a river pool to cool off, and the glacial canyon like Little Yosemite Valley opened up below us. Off to the right, the valley cliffs coursed up to craggy Matterhorn peak. After 8 miles, we reached the first of two waterfalls (Tuolumne) at Glen Aulin.
Glen Aulin, one of the Yosemite High Sierra Camps, is located in a subalpine meadow where Cold Creek flows in to the Tuolumne River. There were still wild flowers and sierra cabbage on the ground. The High Sierra camp closed for the winter the day we arrived. One staff member was still there. She let us use their firewood. The area below the falls has pools and smooth glacial rock slides. We saw a fawn in camp, and tiny mice near food sources.
Lee Stetson of Mariposa and his friend from Seattle joined us that afternoon. They had walked from Tuolumne Meadows also. After dinner, we stargazed on a hill, and made a roaring campfire. Lee - that is, John Muir - regaled us with stories of his treks in the sierras, his night on Shasta, his riding a snow avalanche, his most stupid trip thru a glacier in Alaska with a small dog, and more. Quite a treat. Four fishermen, Maxwell, Jack, Sonny and Gabriel (Fullerton firefighters and EMT workers) joined us at the campfire. They were trout fishing in the Tuolumne. river and nearby lakes along our route. Also joining us were Cat and Tom of Pacifica. Lovely time, good company, some whiskey that I spilled on myself.
The story of Muir's March, in the words of marcher and RHH board member Mark Palley:
Saturday, September 12
We arrived at Tuolumne Meadows Saturday evening. I had joined four other hikers, John, David, Stefen and Rob, in a van that left from San Francisco. Mike Marshall saw us off. Theresa from LA met us in Oakdale. Our drivers for the day were making their first visit to Yosemite – Anthony from Ireland, Allison and Helen from Australia and Bryce of RHH recently arrived from NY. At camp we met up with Pete and our guides, Eden and Patrick. We set up camp and had a lovely dinner. The hikers introduced themselves: John is an Episcopalian Priest in Corona, Theresa is a director of emergency response in Simi Valley, Rob is a software engineer in San Francisco, David is a software engineer in Concord, and Stefen is a muralist. The Australians taught us some local slang, and we taught them the American tradition of smores.
Those who love -- and find a refuge in -- nature should join the fight to rehabilitate Hetch Hetchy, Yosemite's "twin." 